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The DT006 board will program the AVR 8, 20, and 28 pin DIP chips on board, and will
also program the DT107, (8515 and 4433
footprint) DT104, (2313 footprint) and SIMM100
(8535 footprint) AVR SimmSticks, as well as any AVR
target board that has a Kanda type header. Current burning software is achieved with the
programmer software built into MCS Bascom-AVR,
HPInfo Codevision C, and Imagecraft C.
Check Bascom-AVR, Codevision, and Imagecraft documentation for chip types supported.
This means, after you have this programmer unit up and running as a development
platform, all you need to duplicate the procedure with a stand alone micro, is a single
AT90S2313-10-PC micro, and a DT104 PCB and
a handful of simple components. Or you can use your own circuit design on a proto board,
vero board, your own artwork, whatever.
It sure beats buying those "stampy thingos" every
time you want to get a new design going, or wish to duplicate an old one. And these things
absolutely scream along by comparison. A 10Mhz AVR micro executes instructions at twice
the speed of the 20Mhz PICmicro based BSII, and that's just the micro. As BASCOM-AVR
is compiled Basic, and not tokenized into a serial EEPROM like the BSII is, you
have just speed it up by another factor of about 15-20 times.
Board Components Required:
Power Supply Section:
PCB 1 x DT006A
VR1 1 x 7805 +5 Voltage regulator in TO-220 case.
1 x Suitable heat sink for above Regulator.
D1 1 x Diode Bridge D1 WO2 (or WO4 type)
J4 1 x 2.5mm (or 2.1mm) DC Input plug. PCB mount.
C1 1 x Capacitor 1000uf Electrolytic @25 Volts. (PCB type mount.)
C2 1 x Capacitor .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic or Monolithic
C3 1 x Capacitor 10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tant. @16 V.
C4 1 x Capacitor .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic or Monolithic
LED10 1 x 3mm LED. PWR monitor
R15 1 x Resistor 1K .25 watt
Programmer and Micro Section:
U3 1 x AT90S2313-10-PC 10Mhz 20 pin DIP
X1 1 x 3 leg resonator to suit Micro Speed.
A 10Mhz Crystal and two 22pf ceramic Caps can be fitted
as an alternative to X1. The caps are installed at locations C9 and C10
Don't fit the caps if you are installing the resonator.
(15-30pf are suitable, resonators have 30pf caps internal)
A 20 pin machine pin socket should be fitted to the U3 location.
This will enable this Micro to be removed, if an 8 or 28 pin micro is
to be installed.
A 3 pin machine pin socket, or strip, can be used for the X1 location.
This will allow you to fit other value resonators.
If you can't find a strip, a 3 pin one can be cut from a
machine pin socket.
J7 1 x DB-25 Male right angle PCB mount connector.
R2 1 x Resistor 330R .25 watt
R3 1 x Resistor 330R .25 watt
R4 1 x Resistor 330R .25 watt
SW1 1 x 4 leg push-button Switch.
C12 1 x Capacitor 4.7uf to 10uf Electrolytic or Tantalum.
R17 1 x Resistor 10K .25 watt
Serial Communications Section:
U1 1 x MAX-232 E2 (or equivalent)
You may chose to use a 16 pin socket for the Max-232
C5 1 x 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C6 1 x 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C7 1 x 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C8 1 x 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
J6 1 x DB-9 right angle PCB mount connector.
Input/Output Section:
R1 1 x Resistor 1K .25 watt
R14 1 x Resistor 1K .25 watt
SW2 1 x 4 leg push-button Switch.
SW3 1 x 4 leg push-button Switch.
R6-R13 1 x RN1 1K resistor network. 10 pin device.
1 common pin.
(10P9R-1K)
Alternatively, if a resistor network is difficult to source,
this could be 8 individual resistors installed standing
upright on the board.
LED2-9 8 x 3mm LEDs.
J9 1 x set of male header pins at .1" centers. (8 x 2 format)
TL8 8 x .1" test links.
Final Touch:
4 x 12mm square .5" stick on rubber feet. Adds a nice finish.
Optional Items: (not needed to get the basic unit going)
Kanda Compatible Connector:
J10 10 pin IDC Connector. (2 x 5 male header).
LED1 1 x 3mm LED.
R5 1 x Resistor 1K .25 watt
AVCC: (Used for A/D 28 pin Micros)
C11 1 x Capacitor .1uf (100nf) Ceramic
R16 1 x Resistor 100R .25 watt
Extension of SimmStick Bus:
J1 1 x 30 pin female R/A header strip.
If you use these, make sure
you solder the
female connector to the DT006 board.
J2-3 1 x dual 30 pin Simm Socket.
See: simcon.html
J1 Will allow you to very simply connect to a proto or vero board for outboard
development.
J2-3 As you will find, you generally can't get two SimmSticks into two adjoining
Simm Sockets unless all components are surface mounted, so you would normally use the J3
position for a SimmStick. As single and dual sockets are about the same price, we have
allowed for a dual to be used in this position.
Additional Jumper Options:
J5 Serial in/out crossover to Simm Bus.
4 pin (2 x 2) header. Two
Links.
We
have found it is easier for most kit builders
to
install a link, than cut a track, so these links
are
default open.
To
be able to use serial comms to a SimmStick via the Simm Bus,
you
will have to link J5 correctly. For direct connection,
link
pin 1 to pin 2, and pin 3 to pin 4. This means the links
must
be horizontal. To swap the RX/TX signals, simply position
them
vertical.
J8 4 pin (2 x 2) header. Unused signals
of Max-232. Not used.
J11-12 2 x 3 pin headers. Two test links. Used to configure
Int/Ext OSC pins of an 8 pin
Micro. Extends to Simmbus.
J13 1 x 3 pin header. 1 test Link. Configure
AREF to VCC
for 28 pin micro.
J14 MOSI/MISO in/out crossover to Simm Bus.
4 pin (2 x 2) header. Two
Links.
This is also D5 and D6 to the
Simm Bus.
We
have found it is easier for most kit builders
to
install a link, than cut a track, so these links
are
default open.
To
be able to program a SimmStick via the Simm Bus,
you
will have to link:
J14
pin 1 to pin 2, and
J14
pin 3 to pin 4.
This
means the links must be
horizontal, or point towards the Simm socket.
If
you need to swap these signals, simply position
them
vertical.
If
you wish to use D5 and D6 on the Simm Socket,
or
extended Simm Bus,
you
will have to link:
J14
pin 1 to pin 2, and
J14
pin 3 to pin 4.
Alternative Micros:
U2 Used for 8 pin micro
installation.
U4 Used for 28 pin micro installation.
Assembly Instructions:
We have been designing and manufacturing boards for many years now, so hopefully, we
are starting to get it right.
 | All the positives of polarized capacitors point to the top of the board. |
| All LEDs have the anode to the top of the board. The cathodes have a flat edge on one
side of the plastic, this points towards the bottom of the board. |
| Items like switches that can be inserted into the board in two, and sometimes 4
different ways, we have run the tracks, so that it doesn't matter which way you install
them. |
| Four poster header pins and Links. The artwork has been done so that installing links in
the horizontal or vertical position, will logically cross over the connection. |
| All options at link positions have the links factory set to open. As our own experience
has shown, users would prefer to put in a set of posts and links, or even solder in a wire
link, rather than cut a track on a board. |
| The resistor network, should be a 9 pin for 8 resistors, but you can't get them, so it's
a 10 pin device. You will see an extra dummy hole at one end of the artwork at this
position to allow for this. Again, we have connected +5V to this dummy hole so it doesn't
matter which way it is installed, as long as it is a 9 resistor network. We have also
allowed for 8 individual resistors to be installed if you have trouble getting a resistor
network. This means standing the resistors up from the board, so that one leg is bent over
the body of the resistor. The 8 resistors are placed into 2 holes in the vertical
position, so that one end of each resistor connects to +5V. Install The Components:
As a general rule, the lowest height components should be
installed into the board first, as this will make installation much easier.
Install the crystal 3 pin socket, and the 20 pin machine pin socket into the U3
position. Install a 16 pin socket for U1 if you wish to. This may be a good choice for a
beginner.
Instead of saying "Install this into that" here is the general order of the rest
of installation procedure:
Resistor Network (10P9R-1K). Alternatively, if a resistor network is difficult to
source, this could be 8 individual resistors installed standing upright on the board.
Resistors R1-1K, R2-330R, R3-330R, R4-330R, R14-1K, R15-1K, and R17-10K.
C2-Capacitor .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic
C3-Capacitor 10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tant. @16 V.
C4-Capacitor .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic
C5-Capacitor 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C6-Capacitor 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C7-Capacitor 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C8-Capacitor 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum cap for Max-232.
C12-Capacitor 4.7uf to 10uf Tantalum.
LED 2 to LED 9 (8) 3mm.
LED 10 3mm.
This pretty well covers the low profile components, so the order of the rest of the
items isn't all that important.
Components Left To Install:
C1-1000uf Electrolytic @25 Volts
VR1-7805 +5 Voltage regulator in TO-220 case, and Suitable heat sink for the Regulator.
D1-Diode Bridge D1 WO2 (or WO4 type)
J4-2.5mm (or 2.1mm) DC Input plug. PCB mount.
J6-DB-9 right angle PCB mount connector.
J7-DB-25 Male right angle PCB mount connector.
SW1-4 leg push-button Switch.
SW2-4 leg push-button Switch.
SW3-4 leg push-button Switch.
J9-Set of male header pins at .1" centers. (8 x 2 format)
Final Touch:
4 x 12mm square (or round) .5" stick on rubber feet. Adds a nice finish. Stick in the
four corners of the solder side of the DT006 board.
Micros and Configuration:
Install:
U3-AT90S2313-10-PC 10Mhz 20 pin DIP
X1-10Mhz 3 leg resonator.
U1-MAX-232 E2 (or equivalent)
TL8- 8 x .1" test links. These are installed on the J9 header posts.
In order to get all 8 LEDs to flash, all 8 links will need to be installed, however as
Data signals D5, D6, and D7 (the last 3 links) may upset the programming signals, you will
need to remove these 3 links, and sit them over just one pin of the header, not 2 pins,
during the programming phase.
Initial Power up and Testing:
Remove the micro if you have it installed.
Make sure you have links installed for the first 5 LED positions on the J9 header pins.
Leave D5, D6, and D7 links out. These are the 3 links nearest the Simm Socket
position.
Power the unit up via your plugpack or wall wart.
If all is well, the power LED, LED-10 will light up.
Press switch 2, then switch 3, these should make Data LEDs 3 and 4 light up.
Check the heat sink for excessive heat. It should be mildly warm. If you have a
multi-meter, you can check for +5V on the board. If the power LED is on and stable, this
is a pretty good indication that the power section is alive and well.
RS-232:
You can now check the RS-232 section by hooking up the DB-9 connector to a comms port on
your PC and running a terminal program such as hyperterm under W9x, etc.
You must put a short between pins 2 and 3 of the micro at the 20 pin socket location. If
you have used a machine pin socket, it's easy to push a resistor leg, or low value
resistor (100R or less) into the socket. What you type into the comms program, should be
"echoed' back to you with the link installed. Removing the link should stop this
echo. You can check this at any speed, any data format, just make sure you have the
correct comms port.
We are rushing dt006 boards to Mark, the Author of Bascom-AVR, so he can put together a
very nice piece of testing software for this board, in the meantime, you can try testing
with "rotate.bas" for the LEDs and "strings.bas" for
RS-232 testing. The method of programming using Bascom-AVR is covered in the runavr link
listed below.
Programming:
This is fully covered in the runavr
project.
For more Info (Lots more)
Check out: Bascom-AVR
Check out: DonTronics Atmel page.
What you can do with the SimmStick slots?
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With the above, all you need is a 40 pin machine pin socket soldered to the board and
insert the 40 pin Aries into it, so that it can be re-used for any other project, and
solder 5 jumper wires from the socket to the male connector pins and you have a Jerry
Meng, or Chris Morris AVR programmer. No need to worry about diodes or resistors for power
as the DT004 has its own power. A set of rubber feet tops this project off.
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